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Draping collar

Draping collar

Posted on 2013-02-15 02:04:47

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Construction of a neck and neck as the body structure and the chest was a large point of view, from the functional point of view, the decision in principle to form a collar clothing identity should be open. Carefully observe the approximate shape of a cylindrical neck, slightly tilted forward, getting rough with the characteristics of top-down. Further observation will find the center of the neck root root neck center than the previous high, it will connect two points after the formation of high and low before the slash, it is not difficult to understand why the former is greater than open collar open after picking. Second stand-collar draping draping collar is the most basic kind of collar, the neck is actually a form of structure to start the plane. Steps are as follows: 1 take long = 1 / 2 +5 cm neck circumference, width = +6 cm in width by design to the fabric, using the iron fabric before stretching into a slightly curved shape, the fabric center line and center line of clothing behind the lead compound consistent with the nest. 2, the remaining fabrics along the collar line to continue the installation, observe the shape side side side installation adjustment. 3 do a good job on the cook collar tag, trim the excess fabric. Three-dimensional cut lapel lapel collar is different from the restricted neck, chest and shoulder part of the contact does not occur, therefore the structure corresponding to a simple, stand-collar lapel is not only part of the lapel as well as part of that need to consider the relationship between the collar and shoulder. Steps are as follows: 1 take long = N / 2 +10 cm, width = design capacity of the ramp +5-8 cm piece of yarn, fabric, draw the center line. 2 the center line and center line of the nest after the lead compound, and then to determine the basis of Waterloo lapel collar shape. 3, after adjusting the shape lapel pen mark in the lead cook back of knee and used to identify with the shape of the lapel. 4 Remove the platform from the people placed on the plane after the correction. Four-wave waves draping collar collar making in two ways: one is the amount of emulated, that is, when Measure the collar clothing nest after body size, and then nest in the plane cut out the size of the arc-shaped collar samples, general surface pull the two ends of the arc, and the clothing collar Waterloo composite body, thus leading the formation of waves; Another way to cut is a classic straight draping methods, methods of operation are as follows: 1 Remove the length = width = (N / 2 +5) / 2 is inclined 45 degrees, a square cloth, cut in the middle of the fabric, cut a length back neck width, leading to the basis of samples, will be based on leader position after leading type of clothing behind the leader at the back of knee fixed and nest under the collar collar-like shape to do basic cut mouth. 2 in the basic collar-like waves on the outside to do, when to do the wave, hold the collar at the collar kind of equipment, other hand and hold the cloth to do the wave, by doing open notches in the collar fossa involve force to eliminate . 3, when the waves turn to do the front half of the observed wave volume is reasonable to further modification. Waves lead to the production of 4, pay attention to the coordination of various parts to maintain the uniformity of the waves. 5 When the waves after waves with the identification collar with a set form. Five three-dimensional cutting collar lapel collar and ferrule difference is connected with the collar, lapel collar to form a unique structure, open collar and straight horizontal open-collar should be adjusted accordingly. Steps are as follows: 1 take long = N / 2 +8 cm, width = width + 5 cm of the ramp design gauze-like, in the lead after the cut at 5 cm deep, 8 cm wide and made the basis of collar-like, install it in clothing nest on the collar itself. 2 folding line folding the rear collar, and to observe whether the formation. 3 to make clothing with the flag line first split the body shape, the kind of front-end based on lead compound consistent with the split head. 4 In the collar-like basis for the signs on the line, press the line to mark the outline shape. 5, cut the cloth, made like the last completed collar. Six changes in the basic collar collar described above the three-dimensional cutting methods, changes in the steps leading type of collar is also consistent with the basic key to modeling is to determine according to the first yarn to the fabric, fold down the performance of the state of collar type should be Select oblique yarn, and even lapel class should also be used oblique yarn, such as collars, brass basin.

2013-02-15 02:04:47